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- Edwin John Davis was a British Episcopalian chaplain who resided in Alexandria. He traveled throughout Asia Minor as an observer and this account details one of his journey as well as his scholarly comparisons between the various regions. -
April 23.
(pg. 24) We left Smyrna for Aiasolouk. The railway passes round the base of Mount Pagus, through some deep cuttings in the volcanic rock, and enters the plain of Boujah...
(pg. 25) Beyond Boujah, is the large village of Sedikeui, with a magnificent grove of cypresses near it. Here the plain, which is only in part under culture, begins to open, and its dark red soil is evidently very fertile...
(pg. 28) The railway here passes under the stupendous rock-precipices of Alaman Dagh (Mount Galesion). High above, on a precipitous peak of the mountain, stands the Kedji Kalesy (Groat's Fort), supposed to have been one of the ancient Persian watch-towers. The railroad passes close under it, and alongside the rapid and turbid stream of the Cayster, now much swollen by the late rain.
(pg. 29) At mid-day the train arrived at Aiasolouk.
(pg. 32) From the foot of the hill of Aiasolouk the marshy plain of the Cayster extends without interruption to the sea. On the north the offsets of Galesus bound it, and on the south the long ridge of Coressus. Immediately in front and projecting into the plain is the hill of Prion — the site of ancient Ephesus.
April 24.
(pg. 60) At 9 A.M. we left for Azizieh. Our route lay through a most beautiful glen, bordered by high mountains on either side, all well wooded. Before the Smyrna and Aidin Railway was made, the caravan road between these two cities passed through this ravine. It had been roughly paved, but is now in bad repair. At intervals were the guard-houses of the zaptiehs, now all in ruin, and cottages once tenanted by the English employed in constructing the line ; a beautiful little stream, buried in thick wood, traverses this glen, and near the Azizieh Tunnel a fine ancient aqueduct crosses the ravine, consisting of two ranges of arches - three large below, six smaller above. Except that its ends are broken off it is still in good preservation.
(pg. 62) Between Azizieh and Balajik, the country through which the railway passes resembles the most beautiful ravines in Cornwall or Devonshire. It is a deep dell shut in by lofty mountains, which are crowned with forests of pine and oak.
(...) Near Balajik the railway enters the plain of the Maeander. The distant mountains, especially Besh Parmak, on the south side of the plain, are very beautiful. The chain on the north side, a part of Mount Messogis, is rugged and broken ; it is a succession of peaks green and wooded to the summits, their outlines most fantastic, yet singularly beautiful. At Karabounar the top of Baba Dagh (Mount Cadmus), covered with snow, first appears.
(...) At 1 P.M. we reached Aidin. The modern city lies on the edge of the plain, close under the lowest slopes of Messogis; the ruins of ancient Tralles are on the high plateau above the town ; but neither then, nor on our return, had we time to visit them.
(pg. 63) Mr. Bradech, of Aidin, who was to be the leader of our party, had our horses ready, and at 3.30 P.M. we started for Nazli. The plain of the Maeander is the finest district of Anatolia, fertile, well cultivated, and with abundance of wood and water. There is even a good road, enclosed with walls and well-kept hedges in most parts.
(...) Our route was as follows:-4.25 P.M., Imamkeui— near this is a large mineral spring; 5 P.M., Sekkeui; 5.49 P.M., River Kutchak ; 6.15 P.M.,Keuschk; here we halted half an hour for refreshment. We halted again at Aktcha Keui, and, close upon midnight, reached the Khan at Nazli.
April 25.
(pg. 64) Rose at 5.30 A.M., and made our toilet at the fountain in the middle of the courtyard. It happened to be market-day; so after breakfast, and whilst waiting for fresh horses to be brought, we strolled through the bazaars (…). At 9 A.M. we left Nazli. The hills behind the town are a continuation of the Messogis range, lower, but equally broken ; and at the spot where the road turns southwards to the Maeander they are yet lower and less wooded. Opposite Birlebey there is a remarkable opening in them, through which a small river issues.
(pg. 68) About an hour and a half beyond, a torrent descends in a large waterfall from Messogis and enters the plain not far from the town of Kuyudja.
This upper part of the Maeander valley is less fertile and less thickly peopled than the lower part. Its soil is sandy or gravelly, and it slopes rapidly from the mountains down to the river. The whole length of the valley is thirty hours on horseback, and properly to develop the resources of this rich district the Smyrna and Aidin Railway should be extended, but of this there seems little immediate prospect. Although so early in the season the heat was intense, and at 12.15 P-M. we gladly halted at one of the cafes in the village of Ali Aga Tchiftli. This pretty little spot is opposite the site of Antiocheia ad Maeandrum, but we did not visit the old city, the heat was overpowering and we much fatigued.
(pg. 70) At 3 P.M. we again started, and in about an hour passed the village of Yenikeui, situated on a hill close by the Ak Soo (Mosynus river).
(pg. 72) We continued to pass up the valley till we could see behind us only the upper corner of the Maeander valley, with Messogis beyond it. Gradually Mount Cadmusappeared, rising to a snow-covered peak, which glittered like silver against the deep blue sky. The country between us and it seemed very vast, and far away in front, another range—the north end of Boz Dagh— closed the view. The town of Kara Soo, where we were to halt that night, is at the top of the great slope above mentioned.
(pg. 73) Left Kara Soo at 6.40 A.M. Our course was down to the Ak-Soo and up the opposite slope to Geera (Aphrodisias).
(pg. 74) At 8.40 A.M. we reached the gateway in the wall of Aphrodisias, observing on the sides of the road that led to it many broken columns and sarcophagi.
(pg. 78) We left Aphrodisias at 12.20 p.m. Our route was through a sandy but well cultivated district, past the villages of Emir Keui and Sekkeui, and across several deep torrent beds cut by the streams which descend from Mount Cadmus Mount Cadmus when the snow melts.
(pg. 79) At about 3 P.M., continually ascending from Geera, we reached the foot of "Tcham Beli" (“Pine Pass "), otherwise called " Koregoze Beli” (…). The ascent, though long, was not very steep, and at 4.50 p.m. we reached the café (…). At 5.45 P.M. we reached the top of the pass. At 8.30 P.M. we reached the village of Kara Hissar.
(pg. 86) Left Kara Hissar at 6.15 A.M. In half an hour we reached Makuf.
(...) At 8.10 A.M. we reached the large and flourishing village of Kilidja Bolouk.
(pg. 87) At about 10 A.M. we reached Sara Ova, and were proceeding as Kieppert's map indicated towards the pass, between the east end of Cadmus and Khonas Dagh, intending thus to reach Denizli.
(...) They advised us to cross the Seiteen Yailas, a shoulder of Mount Cadmus, and so to enter the pass. Accordingly we followed a deep ravine leading to the foot of the mountain, by Which, they said, we should find a practicable path leading over the summit. The ascent was so steep that we were obliged to dismount, and, after passing through a thick forest of pine and oak, we reached the summit in three quarters of an hour (…). Our guide led us directly down the mountain side, and in about an hour from the summit we reached a cafe on the main road to Denizli.
April 28.
(pg. 91) A splendid morning followed the heavy rain of yesterday. We left Denizli at 9.25 A.M., having been delayed by the difficulty we found in making some necessary purchases. At 10.35 A.M. we reached Eski Hissar Eski Hissar(Laodicea). On the way we searched in vain for the hot spring, like that of Hierapolis, which is said to have supplied the baths of the old-city.
Mapping by Helena Dominguez, Version 1 (February 2017)